🧗 Climb
中文

Essential Climbing Knots — Four Knots Every Climber Must Know

May 5, 2026

Knots are the foundation of climbing safety. What you can tie with a rope determines your relationship with it — a reliable safeguard or a fatal hazard.

These four knots are mandatory for every climber, whether you boulder or climb trad.

1. Figure-8 Knot

Use: Connecting the rope to your harness. The most widely used tie-in knot in climbing.

Advantages: High strength (retains ~80% of rope strength), doesn’t loosen easily, easy to inspect (you can tell at a glance if it’s right).

Tying Steps

  1. Form a loop about 1m from the rope end
  2. Wrap the loop around the standing rope once
  3. Pass through the loop from above
  4. Thread the end through both tie-in points on your harness (leg and waist loops)
  5. Follow the figure-8 back through (“trace back” the knot)
  6. Critical check: Two strands are parallel, 5 loops visible, tail at least 15cm

Common Mistakes

  • Tail too short (under 10cm) — must leave enough, or it can pull through under load
  • Wrong direction — forms a reverse figure-8 with reduced strength
  • Only threaded once — must “trace back”

2. Double Fisherman’s Knot

Use: Joining two rope ends (making cord loops, repairing ropes), basis for the Prusik knot.

Advantages: Symmetrical, tightens under load, no slippage.

Tying Steps

  1. Overlap two rope ends by about 30cm
  2. Wrap rope A around rope B twice (from the overlap point outward)
  3. Pass the end of rope A through both loops it created
  4. Pull tight
  5. Repeat with rope B wrapping around rope A twice
  6. Pass end of B through its loops
  7. Pull both ends — the two knots will slide together

3. Clove Hitch

Use: Anchoring, gear attachment, building belay stations. Can be tied one-handed on a carabiner.

Advantages: Easy to adjust (pull one strand to tighten or loosen), can tie with one hand.

Tying Methods

On a carabiner (fastest):

  1. Wrap once around the carabiner
  2. Wrap a second time, crossing the first turn
  3. Pull tight

In hand method:

  1. Hold one loop in each hand, palms down
  2. Place left loop in front of right loop
  3. Clip carabiner through both loops
  4. Pull tight

4. Munter Hitch

Use: Emergency belaying when you’ve forgotten or dropped your belay device. Works with just one HMS carabiner.

Advantages: Only needs a carabiner, works for bidirectional loading, reliable friction.

Note: Twists the rope significantly. Not recommended as a primary belay method.

Tying Steps

  1. Pass rope through HMS carabiner
  2. Bring the rope end around the back of the carabiner to the front
  3. Pass through the gap between carabiner and standing rope
  4. Rope end sits above the standing rope

Practice Tips

  • Practice each knot 10 times per week until you can tie them with your eyes closed
  • Practice in bed or on the couch, in all positions (especially tying behind your back)
  • Have an experienced partner check your knots

Remember: The knot you tie is what protects your life. Check it every time. An unchecked knot is the same as no knot at all.