A Brief History of Climbing in China
May 9, 2026
China’s climbing history isn’t long, but its growth has been remarkable. From scattered exploration in the 1980s to world-class crags and Olympic athletes today — it took less than 40 years.
1980s: Western Explorers
The beginning of climbing in China wasn’t Chinese — it came from Western mountaineers and climbers.
In 1987, American climber Todd Skinner led a team to Yangshuo, stunned by the unique karst peak landscape. They established the first routes at Moon Hill and surrounding areas. Skinner later wrote: “This may be one of the largest undeveloped climbing areas in the world.”
Around the same time, Japanese climbers were also exploring, particularly in Yunnan.
1990s: Yangshuo Takes Shape
The 1990s were when Yangshuo became China’s climbing mecca.
American climber Craig Luebben, British climber Paul Collis, and others came to Yangshuo and developed large numbers of routes. Areas like Moon Hill, White Mountain, and Thunder Mountain grew into established climbing sectors.
By 1997, Yangshuo had its first climbing guide services, mostly run by foreign climbers. This also attracted the first generation of Chinese climbing enthusiasts.
2000s: China’s Own Climbing Community
The 2000s saw China’s climbing community truly take form.
2003: The Chinese Mountaineering Association began promoting sport climbing. Indoor climbing gyms started appearing in cities.
2005: The Beijing Baihe Climbing Foundation was established. Baihe (White River) became the most important sport climbing area in northern China.
2008: Getu (Guizhou) was discovered and quickly became a world-class multi-pitch big wall destination.
During this period, local climbers actively participated in route development. Key figures include Qiu Hongshu, Liu Yongbang, and others.
2010s: International Stage and Indoor Boom
- 2011: First IFSC Climbing World Cup held in China
- 2016: Climbing announced as an official sport for Tokyo 2020 Olympics; China began systematic training of competitive climbers
- 2016-2019: Explosive growth of indoor climbing gyms in Chinese cities — climbing went from “niche” to popular
2020s: The Golden Age
- 2020: Chinese athletes Pan Yufei and Song Yiling qualified for the Tokyo Olympics
- 2021: Climbing confirmed for Paris 2024
- 2022-2025: China’s competitive climbing level surged; multiple Chinese athletes won World Cup stages
- 2024 Paris Olympics: Chinese speed climbers delivered standout performances, with Wu Peng and others reaching the podium
- 2025: Trad areas like Liming (Yunnan) and Shigu (Yunnan) gained international attention
- 2026: Climbing continues to grow under the Olympic spotlight; both gym numbers and climber population in China hit record highs
Classic First Ascents
| Year | Route | Location | First Ascensionist(s) | Grade |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1987 | Moonwalker | Yangshuo Moon Hill | Todd Skinner team | 5.11d |
| ~2000 | China Climb | Yangshuo | Liu Yongbang et al. | 5.14a |
| 2015 | China Best | Getu | Qiu Hongshu et al. | 5.14d |
| 2017 | Monkey King | Getu | Edu Marin | 5.15a |
| 2020 | Milky Way | Liming | Qiu Hongshu | 5.13d trad |
Climbing Ethics in China
As the climbing population grows, ethical discussions have emerged:
- Bolting debate: Should trad areas be bolted? Discussions continue, especially at Liming
- Access rights: Some crags are in scenic areas or private land — is permission needed?
- Environmental impact: Promoting Leave No Trace principles, reducing ecological impact on cliff environments
- Cultural respect: Some cliffs hold cultural significance for local ethnic minorities
China’s climbing history is short but vibrant. From followers to pioneers, the growth of the Chinese climbing community is the sport’s most valuable asset in this country.